Pre Date

Visa for Ranjit, contact with Richard and Jen re Currency

Jordan

Saturday 12 July

Up for 7:00. Pen slept on. AC man not expected for 8:30, but there just in case! Quiet day otherwise with last minute rush for haircut, pay phone bills and traveller's cheques. Charging unit and batteries for Bill caused slight problem, but biggest was S-Video (7 pin) connection.

Flights, Dead Sea accommodation, entry and exit hotel in Istanbul, car hire paid for Dh 14300, nearly all Cyprus Hotels paid, CYP 310 (Dh 2000), $1500 (Dh 5500) in traveller’s cheques, $1000 (Dh 3700) in cash, credit cards and Dh 600 in Jordanian currency. Still some things to pay for though, a month away does not come cheap!

Sunday 13 July

Up for 05:30 and some staggering about. Car left at Fast AUH with 68833 on odometer by 06:20.

08:40 AUH to AMM.

Biggest problem was waiting for the agent for Pen. By 07:00 the waiting was getting a bit much so went to the check-in desk to see what could be done. As the question was asked and explained, Pen walked up with the agent and she started her running around after the extended check in brought about by a systems lock out! Quiet flight with a 'Simpsons' episode (Maggie Simpson shoots Mr Burns. Based on 'Easy as taking candy from a baby').

Toshiba cannot go for extended periods (couple of hours continuous use) without recharge.

The plane arrived 25 minutes early, which caught the guide on the hop. However, with only one plane in, the move through immigration was reasonably leisurely. A ten minute wait for the car and on down to the Hotel.

En route, just where we stopped for the view previously, the car stopped with a puncture. Done and dusted after less than ten minutes and the last few minutes has us in and to a dead stop at reception. Several people, but only one guy working! Booked in and roomed (Yamouk 10), a few doors down from last time, then, with a few problems holding over for the MP3, we head down to the beach/pool.

Actually we did not intend going down to the sea, but we did end up there at around four - out of boredom - sitting still in one place should not be so hard but it is!

Back to the room and showered by five and the MP3 problem is bypassed with the wire from a tie tag. The problem was that the car unit does not mate with the mains adapter (not checked before departure). Temporary connection only joined the two positive lines. The tag wire joined the two negative lines - hey presto - music.

Pen arranges the eating house order. Italian tonight. Chinese tomorrow and the Grill for the last night. Belly dancer was in action as we went into "Luigi's". Very nice food with the local Madaba Red. After eating we went out for Pen to have a Sheisha and the belly dancer was back. Need to remember the camera for Monday.

Monday 14 July

Onward flights confirmed. Breakfast at eleven with some items thin on the ground. Back to the room and preparations made for another lazy day. Down on the poolside with an occasional dip and drink. Turned out we never got down to the sea. By four we “lobsters” were heading back to the room to listen to “Star Wars”. An early dinner at "Chopsticks", on the roof overlooking the sea and the sunset. Pictures taken of the sunset, pool and hotel as dusk fell and, when she came, the belly dancer.

Tuesday 15 July

Up by 09:30 and a quick stumble down for 'early' breakfast.

Plan for today is to go down to the sea. Back at the pool we will try to keep in the shade. At around one or two have a light lunch. Early return to the room and when it cools down, five or six, drop down to the sea again for the last time this trip. It remains to be seen how close to reality the plan gets.

After breakfast a nip into the Internet cafe to try and retrieve the voucher for the one night stay in Cyprus on arrival. First attempt failed because the computer was in use. The second and third attempts failed because of systems refusal to connect to the individual page. This could require a serous bypass (In Turkey a possible reason for this problem surfaced - keyboard layout configuration differences)!

The sea, pool, drinks and lunch all were attained. Second trip to the sea not bothered with. Dinner at the Grill was nice, but the duck, which we both had, fell short of the standard set by Hatta Fort and the food the last couple of nights. After dinner, up to the bar for a nightcap, triple Remy for Pen and, ostensibly, a single for me with a coffee causing the biggest problem (is this a surprise?).

Turkey

Wednesday 16 July

Breakfast was the normal high quality affair. Pen avoided the hot one, I took my usual. Time to sit and wait since all packing has already been done. Damage report: JD 350. (JD 1 = £1) Back in the room final preparations for departure with a 'last' check showing we had missed the power adapter! A further 'last' check came up clear.

Down in the lobby we were eventually informed that the driver was waiting for us while we had been waiting for him! Car and all got moving at 09:10. The airport was reached quickly, smoothly and without incident. The only notable feature of getting to the departure lounge was the inexorably long time getting through 'immigration'! Once through, time for Pen to have a cigarette and both of us a coffee (Nescafe). While waiting listened from Part 3 to Part 9 of 'Valiant' as well as 'Taipei' for Pen and we move through to the Gate.

AMM to IST at 12:30

Samira met us at the airport. She worked valiantly with her English, but she did not expect any English speakers. The trip from the airport was not very eventful despite the traffic volume until we detoured right past Pen's old school and backtracked to find a Movenpick Hotel. Then back into the traffic flurry for the centre of town and near the pinnacle of a hill the bus broke down!

With many apologies Samira popped us into a taxi and we polled up at the Marmara. While I had fun going round and round the rotating doors Pen's patience with John got a bit thin. Once, a little dizzier, at reception we booked in. The room was ready, but not ready - being checked. The room, while well appointed and clean was small by our standards!

17:30 Time for a drink in the "Tepe" lounge, which overlooked the city from the top (13th) floor.

Lubricated and toileted and it is time to head for the food. Pen leads the way down streets full of people to, what can best be described as, a market - Cicek Pasage - food in abundance and the price reasonable, but above Pen's expectations. "Kime Ne Restaurant" used - by Pen all much the same although, in Cicek, a little more expensive. Starters and a fish main course later, it is time for fruit, but after an hour and a half, stuffing in more ain't easy.

Payment time proved fun. At 77 million (TL 2 million = £1) and only forty dollars changed we were a bit short! Sixty dollars saw the account settled and a tip of two million. A meander down the street to Passabache found the place closed - we spent so long eating - and being so full we needed to walk of some of the food before drinking. Back at the ranch, we head for the coral and take a nightcap at the, all but, deserted "Tepe" bar - very relaxing.

Crash out time!

Thursday 17 July

Stagger up for nine and stumble down for breakfast, which, despite the crowd, takes an hour as we blur our way through the offerings.

Repair to the room for a relief and then time to start moving. We first go down to the water - an easy downhill run, then by taxi at breakneck speed to Sariyer and Passebache – lots and lots of glass. Another taxi and we end up in Sariyer proper where it is time to change more dollars to liras, time for a drink. An attempt at coffee by me was aborted for coke! Two ferries left while we drank; yet one came within a few minutes of reaching the station - on to Anadalu.

After a wander round the small fishing village we sit and set to a snack at a waterside restaurant. A major wash joins us soon after sitting down! The 'meal' is a series of starters (Meze) all washed down with the ubiquitous 'effing' beer - on to Imoninu.

Once there an exhausted pair decided to beat the retreat to the hotel and have a brief rest. Rested, time to strike out for the Internet cafe and supermarket. Both objectives achieved, we drop into a cafe for an evening snack. The food was not to Pen's pleasure. Even the promise of fluid enticement was not enough to redress the balance!

Back at the ranch a surprise hit after half an hour - Bill had arrived, received the message we had left for him and rang us. We popped up to his room - he had 'upgraded' to a sea view, took a few pictures then all went for a drink in the "Tepe" bar before going to find him something to eat. On return we repaired to "Tepe's" again for a nightcap before closing the shutters for the day barely before the literal day gave out.

Friday 18 July

Car Hire start

Alarm for 08:45, but not up till 09:00 and down to breakfast until 09:30. An attempt to talk to reception was abandoned when various people cut in.

Jam is 'receli', milk is 'sut', water is 'su', juice is 'suyu', hot is 'sicak' and cold is 'soguk', wine is 'sarap', please is 'lutfen'.

Heysam 0090 212 5874670

Rang re car, told they did not know when we wanted it. No contact from them post airport. 10:45 Bill to Internet cafe returning at 11:15. By 12;00 we enquired as to a time for the car arrival. By 12:30 the call had come and John meet Ayoub and found that the car hire place was very close to the hotel (Note for return). The car turned out to have a near flat tyre (nearside back) and next to no petrol. First priority was petrol, but we ended up crossing the bridge first after going round in circles. Once un-circled, petrol was found and low air was resolved.

Next problem was to find the road out, but expediency led to taking the toll road to Izmit at a cost of 75p for 50 km. Traffic jam and weaving done we head for the countryside, the rolling scenery and the road to Kandira, a village which turned out to be very friendly and quaint.

The bank was the first port of call and armed with $200 in Turkish currency we hunted down hotel, bar and food in that order before sorting out the car. A walk around the village showed some of the sights. We then repaired to the bar for a drink before going to the room to try and listen to HP5. Connecting to the power proved problematic so we sat/lay and talked till tenish before giving up for the night.

Saturday 19 July

Target: Amasra, past Bartin

Breakfast at 09:15 at the local eatery. Soup for everybody with Bill having tea and my coffee and Pen having coffee - Turkish coffee that is. Time to go blacktop.

Quite some time later the road seems to disappear as we go through a village. A couple of turns around the village later and some fruit bought and we find the road does go where we want, so on we go.

Towns and villages pass as does the time. We stopped for a drink and at Zongadaluk a bite to eat. Here one of the waiters, Guarin by name, spoke passable English. The place looked very presentable and pretty with friendly people.

Going on we pass through several villages and road types as well as going off track a couple of times before we finally hit the main track to Bartin and then Amasra. Coming down into Amasra, which like many similar towns and villages, was snuggled between the hills and the sea, we missed a couple of beautiful overview picture shots. The hope is to get them from the opposite side on departure.

The third attempt obtained a room for the three of us, with an ensuite bathroom. The main drawback was that it was four floors up! In fact only the roof was higher. By 18:30 we were settled in and ready for a wander round and food. Wander was fun, but food was not up to Pen's expectation. Beer was available, which did help a little. A further wander took us back to the 'hotel' via an ice cream vender that amused us all. Back in the room a hotel across the road provided the music, which precluded HP5 and to some extent conversation. Exhaustion overtook the noise as we each succumbed.

Sunday 20 July

Inebolu

Sorted and repacked by 09:30 - time for breakfast. Wander to shore restaurant for set breakfast: hard boiled egg, piece of salami, olives, cheese, honey, butter and the usual mountain of fresh bread and Nescafe - very nice.

Next the museum, a short walk away. Small, but well maintained, at 2 million each for the entrance fee, not too expensive. Target set for Sinop, but at about 300 km this is realised to be an untenable target very early on. After averaging 20 kph for the first two hours the result is even more predictable.

Drink at a small village, with notable beautiful scenery en route. At Cide we pass by the petrol station and attempted to make Doganyurt, but 20 km before petrol becomes a priority. This was finally obtained off route at 'Soguksu Merkez' in, what could be best described as, a farm where 20 million was put in by hand after being guided to the location by Suleiman.

On reaching Doganyurt we find we need to go on to Inebolu, 30 km further which we reach by 17:30.At the hotel reception are Serhan and Fatima. Serhan speaks English and German, which makes booking in easy. On seeing the rooms it is decided to stay two nights. Once settled we go for a swim in the pool then time for dinner in their restaurant. A very nice meal, with wine, for less than 60 million, without a tip, less than expected. After dinner three cans of beer were a problem in that we didn't have small enough change.

Beer and chat and time to sleep.

Monday 21 July

Inebolu

dianekell@hotmail.com

27 Russell

GtYarmouth

Norfolk NR30 2J

01493 331614

Hard to rise for 9:00 and an eventual struggle for breakfast by 09:30 which was worth the effort, even though the bread was not fresh. Then on to the Internet café, and the bank before sorting out night two at the hotel then a lounge by the pool and sea. The first exchange could not change any money, a result of a systems failure. The next bank, a short walk down the road took half an hour to change the money, but it was changed. Bill did not have his passport so mine was taken in stead.

A leisurely walk through town led to a drink in a small pretty courtyard. While we drank both Bill and John had their shoes cleaned for a million! Walking back, Bill peeled off for the Internet cafe while Pen and John continued on. Time to lounge by the pool. Notable event here was Bill's purchase of two beers and a coke for nine million, followed half an hour later by two beers and burger and chips for another nine million that required a follow up half an hour later with the help of one of the 'restaurateurs' as interpreter. The beers that came were short, but the food was good.

Time for a swim in the Black Sea. Only John braved 'refreshing' waters. Following the 'swim', drinking and talk were the order until a bout of HP5 was called to order. After the session came the time to eat and we return to the restaurant of last night. Fish this time, but not quite fully cooked so they went back for more treatment. End of meal chaos with Pen going one way and Bill and John another. HP5 listened to with a nightcap in the room.

Tuesday 22 July

Corum (Chorum)

Breakfast in the restaurant. Washing collected. Time to move on. We head off and up to Kastamonu.

A wooden mosque is not visited since directions are non too clear, but the distance blurs away as towns and villages pass. Tosya had us going in circles a little, but once untangled we moved on and up again. Iskilip had a very nice park like area in the centre of town where we thought we could have lunch - peaches, grapes and bread - but it was not to be. Instead we moved out of town to a water station.

Once sated we closed the gap to Corum and after a little wander about find a suitably expensive three star hotel ($80 a night)! Once ensconced, it is time to wander the main street. Looked at the 'Street of Gold' then found an Internet Cafe for Bill. Pen and John ran the gamut of the persistant street boys carrying weighing scales.

Food - Iskander Kebab for Pen and Bill, John with a Kofta Kebab.

Greeted by German speaking Turks from Adiyman, near Syrian border (near Gaziantep and Sanhurfa) in the South East of Turkey. Beer from shop and back at hotel problems with the adapter. Once sorted listened to HP5 and drank beer.

Wednesday 23 July

Bogazkale

Start with breakfast followed by the hunt for the Museum. Needless to say we go up the wrong road and in an attempt to get round the problem we end up coming on the museum from behind and have to jump over the perimeter wall.

Once in, 2 million each again, we find another tidy well presented museum, but photography is not allowed. Our 'guide' was instrumental in digging up various artefacts we found even though he could not speak English. Post the visit Bill bought up their paper stock of books and cards, even depleting their free pamphlet section and getting a quarter of a million from a passer by!

Time to go on to our target destination, which takes about an hour to get to. On driving in we have to wait for a herd of cows to cross the road and closer to the centre a gaggle of geese to cross. We stop for coffee and are given a choice of accommodation for our stay. Hamed and Mustafa run/ own the hotel and pension. The hotel has only been in use for a month so it is still very new. The double room has a king sized bed and the appointment is very good. For value for money one would have to go a long way.

A young waiter, Joacim, acted as guide for our Hattusas trip, however at the Lions' Gate we 'met' up with Ahmed who became our 'official guide' for the full trip round the various parts of the extensive Hittite city of Hattusas. Very helpful, but as we found, we should have sorted a price before we set off to have avoided a little bad taste! Pen's comment, 'We should have only gone with the map and "Lonely Planet" book' However, we did go the round of the Hattusa City and Yazikaya (see the map) before dropping Ahmed off with 5 million from me and 10 from Bill.

Back at the “new found” ranch and we all have some beer. Bill and John knock back some food before Bill heads across the road to the bank for another cash refill.

HP5 whiled away the time to 18:30 after which we took a short stroll around the village. Dinner was had in the restaurant of the hotel. The meal was basic, but of very good quality and washed down by a pleasant white wine. Post dinner Bill had a beer and Pen polished off a half bottle of red. HP5 closed the night.

Thursday 24 July

Urgup: Day 1

Breakfast for 09:00. Basic, but very good.

Next the museum, small, but informative and pleasantly arranged (no photography). Again two million entrance per person.

Out of the museum we overshoot the road out slightly, but correct quickly. Then it is a steady run for the towns in succession: Yosgat, Avanos and finally Urgup where, after a drive through the town, we settle on the Kral Hotel at 100 million a night for two rooms for the three of us. Neat point here was the balcony. We book for three nights.

After the perfunctory drink (10.5 million - not eating or drinking here!) we head out of town briefly before heading back in for the Tourist Information Office.

Helpful information and ideas to play with, as well as pamphlets. While Bill goes round the Museum, Pen and John have a drink in a nearby 'Tea Garden'. When Bill rejoins, he is armed with photo booklets, maps and more pamphlets.

Wander though town shows restaurants, souvenir and wine shops as well as a supermarket. We get a wine bottle opener from a shop near the supermarket, where we had bought some Raid.

Return to the 'ranch' to rest and regroup. HP5 helps pass the time during recovery.

Come six and, because Pen has the Colly Wobbles (Possibly one of the cherry drinks had in town) John and Bill go into town for fodder. First port of call is the high viewpoint in the 'centre' of town. As a consequence of the one way stream - ignored by some, but not all - they are diverted right round to the original entry point, parking the car, unintentionally, outside an Internet Cafe.

Three quarters of an hour later and food finally comes into being in the shape of "Han Ciragan", tucked away in the corner as a consequence of city development. The same development relegates "Somine" to a building site.

The menu was in English as well as Turkish with mezas etc. Food very good and reasonably priced; alcohol a little on the higher side. Return to the hotel has us meeting Mustafa, a resident of Urgup who learnt his English from tourists and very presentable English spoken surprisingly rapidly.

Pen is still out of sorts. Hope she works it out overnight.

Friday 25 July

Urgup: Day 2

Finally fought through the fog and rose by 09:00 for breakfast, a very limited selection. From there to the bank and $200 changed. Next the road out which is found very smoothly and we move on to Kaymakli underground city.

The city was a veritable labyrinth and a mix of glorious colours. Many of the rooms were only the equivalent of a brick thickness apart. Bill took a guide for 22 million. John floated in and out, more out than in!

From there we move on to the next underground city of Derinkuyu, which was a little cruder but deeper underground. The guide was fought off at the point of a camera! Below ground, a battle of wits ensued between Bill and John for crossed photographs!

After the underground cities came the search for the hidden valley of Ihlara. This was eventually found after much to-ing and fro-ing across the expansive countryside. In amongst all the movement we lunched at the Hotel Karvalli, which was situated in an idyllic location in Guzelyurt overlooking a lake, waited on by Ali who informed us that the hotel was jointly owned by Germans and a local carpet merchant in the village.

Onwards to the Ihlara Valley. 400 steps down were easy, as were the 2 km along and back. Overheating dealt with by a top body wash and shirt soak in the rat inhabited river. The steps back up were the problem! However, we were all restoring lost fluid by 17:30. The run back to Urgup took one and a half hours and involved one missed turning which was not corrected for about ten minutes despite being aware that something was awry. However, once we turned about, we quickly picked up the correct road and speedily closed the gap on Kral.

Back at the ranch, the nice thing was not going into town to eat. However the down side was that the meal was quite moderate with a wine, "Turasan" that was rather lively!

HP5 used to close the day.

Saturday 26 July

Urgup: Day 3

Major struggle to get up for 09:30, but it was achieved - only just. Objective is the Cappadocian Wonderland. Time to go.

First stop was a good view point which provided a few pictures. On from there to the Goreme Open Air Museum. Here John and Bill linked up with Mehmet Cingil, a guide, who for $10 took over an hour to go through the place and still not cover everything (Pen stayed with the car)!

After he guided us to a carpet factory, where John fell for his second Silk carpet - his first being in Egypt!

It is noted that a working torch is a necessity for this area of cave and dark corners! Time for a drink and some soup, which was taken in Turkish Sheisha cafe! Once done all moved on to the next open air museum, but everyone had already had enough fresh air and walking so on to the “Fairy Chimneys” which took Bill by storm while John and Pen sat in the car.

We returned to Urgup by three. Bill was deposited in the Internet Cafe, Pen on the Balcony and John on the bed. John surfaced by 17:00, Bill by 17:15.

Six thirty and time to feed. Han Cirgan had already been chosen well beforehand for exposition to Penny. Damage report: 64 million with Bill and John overfeeding themselves.

Back for the final stage of HP5 and subsequent crash out.

Sunday 27 July

Nevsehir - Aksarav - Konya - Manavgat – Side

Breakfast at 09:00 was expedited smoothly, as was the packing and the only thing of note was the refusal of Pen's first credit card - we found its limit. An attempt to find an exchange was short lived as we moved out of town. The hills were left behind and the plains started. Long more or less straight roads with relatively little traffic on them.

Towns came and went and at Aksaray we stopped for petrol at an LPG station. Soon after we stopped again for the real stuff. Once moving again the landscape was mainly noted by flatness.

In Konya, after a dual carriageway caused us to have to do a 'U' turn with three stops in the 'U' for lights, we picked up the Antalya road and immediately stopped at a Cafe for a drink and snack. Duck was on offer in the pool!

Decision time, stay or go on - unanimous choice, get to where there is more scenery! We 'Konya' not! The drive goes on up hill (actually mountains) down dale (big valleys) until the 'blue' Mediterranean comes into view and then disappears. Manavgat comes and we go, then Side comes and we go round and round until we settle on the Bern Hotel.

Registering, with Ibrahim, the thirty-year old owner, involves changing $100 and a drink in the bar. A swim in the pool followed. After that we took a drive to find the beach. This took longer than expected since access to the beach is somewhat limited. However, on the third attempt the access was found and the beach was found to be quite extensive. Swim followed by viewing the sunset before returning to eat at the hotel. A short walk after the meal showed up an Internet cafe next door to the hotel.

Time to sleep.

Monday 28 July

2100 km

Side

Breakfast was a spartan affair - or we were rather late at 09:00. We then went to an exchange, but the rate was poor so we deferred to the bank in Manavgat - which was a mistake. At the Granati bank we wasted an hour queuing and gave up. At HSBC they wanted a tax number when changing travellers' cheques as well as a passport!

Back in Side we went into the 'old' village, which used paid car parking. Then to the ‘amphitheatre' at 10 million each there was not too much to see although it was of a reasonable size. The 'old' town, as we wandered through, was full of jewellery shops. “Nice styles” is all one can say since the purity level was not interesting.

Once through to the harbour it was time for a drink. We settled on one bar by the sea and stayed for half an hour deciding to return there for the evening meal. Seisgun gave us information on what was on offer, extolling the virtues of his restaurant.

We then returned to the hotel and, after a short time by the pool, went for a drink waited on by Typhon (not Gaia's son or Chimera's father). Then, while Pen and John lounged on further by the pool, Bill took on an active mantle and walked back to the old town taking half an hour and bathing himself in sweat. It took two drinks to return him to some semblance of his rehydrated self after his return, although his clothes would need a full wash, rinse and air. Those immortal words were heard one again; "It is further than you think"!

The time closed on seven, and so too did the departure for food. John found he had left the key in car boot all day! On down to "Orfoz" restaurant where they are ready for us with flowers on the table. The meal was very nice and, despite saying we would not, we did have a bottle of wine, a chilled, on advice from Seisgun, red. During the meal (20:30) there was the perfunctory power cut. Once finished (22:00) we went round the corner for Bill and Pen to have a water pipe - only one flavour - apple! "Afete hoh zu" - enjoy you meal.

Back to the ranch ready for the onward move tomorrow.

Tuesday 29 July

Kas (Cash)

Breakfast at the usual 09:30. Milk was quickly obtained from the shop opposite, although John bought twice as much as was needed. Packing was then completed and the open road was searched for in amongst all the tourist hotels! The road led to Antalya, but just before reaching the city limits we veered off for the waterfalls - a notable tourist attraction.

We then retracked to the Antalya Road then misdirected to Mugla by the direct route. Not to ill since we did get an overview of Antalya we would not have otherwise got! The road wound on, up and down with varying degrees of traffic, but attention was needed at all times. An accident we passed reinforced that idea!

The turnoff for Chimera finally came and a long wind down and around finally took us, after about ten kilometres, to the car park. Chimera was half an hour walk uphill after that. When John and Bill finally got there it did not seem much to see, but it was a lot in the mind's eye - 2000 years! After the sight, a drink, proffered by the lovely Fatima then back down the hill to the car! The road winds on.

The next stretch was relatively narrow, up to Finike, with some drivers taking up both lanes coming towards us! However, the majority of drivers were more considerate.

The stretch from Kayle to Kas was wider and easier going, but with time closing on five the target set for Fathiye was still 100 km away. The visual setting for Kas was such that it was a must to stop and on being informed of possibilities by Hokkai we decided to stay for two nights and, for John and Pen, take a boat trip and, for Bill, a trip to Pattera (Santa Claus) and a Gorge walk. Ayaisha was Hokkai's sister and the cook for the evening meal, which was, for us, at the rather late time of 20:45. Another nice meal with a total collapse after.

Wednesday 30 July

Kas (Cash)

Sea Cruise

Breakfast at 09:00, coffee extra! Checked that no divers were to be on the boat (John did not wan t to miss out!). Down to the room for final preparations including dispensing a giant flying-ant like insect. Return to the rooftop to avoid the insect spray and wait for departure!

Mini bus arrived at 10:00 and a rather warm ride to Urguzup which is well off the main road, but very pretty - if limited for space for motorised vehicles! Nice (Kevlova) Hotel/Pension by the waterside. Short boat ride to the village where Pen and John stayed on the boat while the young ones went roaming.

Next run was along the Island with the sunken city with a restricted view through the glass bottom boat. Then to a bay for several swims, lunch and more swims before moving onto another location for another swim and lounge in the sun. We then move to another bay for another swim and lounge in the sun. Finally we returned to Kevlova Harbour and had half an hour to roam the streets. Pen put this to good use by buying a cheesecloth blouse. The return to the minibus was noted for the fact it was all but blocked in. However, several contortions and abuses of the laws of physics later we were in a position to leave on request!

The trip back was punctuated by scenic views and heat exhausted passengers. Back at the ranch time for a shower, drink and rest before meeting up with Bill and hearing his events of the day. Bill, it turns out, braved fire and flood to bring his story to willing ears.

A meal of Meat balls with Cherries for sweet then lights out

Thursday 31 July

Denizli – Pamukkale

Breakfast came and went down as has now become normal. Following breakfast came the painful task of payment 240 million followed by a quick trip to the amphitheatre before hitting the road. A short drive through the 'town' centre and then we start the cruise along various forms of highway at various speeds.

At one town, just before leaving the sea behind there was a question of having taken the wrong route, but it turned out to be correct. After that the road slowed somewhat for about forty kilometres. About half way we stopped for a drink and car wash! The remaining half of the journey went as quickly as the highway was fast, but coming into Denizli the traffic volume slowed movement somewhat.

In Pamukkale, on advice from Hokkai, we sought out the Meltem Otel and, on checking the rate and facilities, booked in for two nights using the second day for the viewing of the sights.

After unpacking we took a short walk round town, bought some odds and ends and checked in at the Internet café, round the corner from the hotel. While Bill continued in the cafe, Pen and John returned to the hotel and John took a dip while Pen played Taipai.

A first attempt to confirm the flights to Amman and then Larnaca fell awry. Dinner before sunset at 19:30. A pleasant meal of four courses with a reasonable 1984 Pammukklean wine.

Crash out.

Friday 1 August

Pamukkale: Day 2

Slow rise by John and Pen for breakfast at 09:30 in the midst of a power cut. Breakfast took an inordinately long time as a result of difficulties heating water with gas!

Time to head for the Hills, or more correctly one White Calcium Oxide Hill. The climb was as much of a slog as expected, with an ever developing view over the town and valley. Once on top, after having paddled barefoot almost all the way up, we set to exploring the ruins together with the other few thousand visitors.

One round of drinks and $300 in traveller's cheques changed later and it is time to go back down again. Down took longer than up as a consequence of stopping off at most of the pools to paddle/soak. Even so a drink and some food was on order once the cafes were reached at the bottom of the hill. A short walk later and the very refreshing hotel pool beckoned. By 15:30 drinks were required once more!

16:30 time to try and confirm the onward flights again.

Heysam Travel: 0090 212 5874 670

Royal Jordanian : 0212 231 9909

RJ166 M 6 Aug: Confirmed

RJ 133 M 7 Aug: Confirmed

Birsel took the call and confirmation.

Bill headed off to the Internet cafe while Pen and John whiled away the time listening to music. By seven the call to food drove John and Pen to find Bill and after a walk around the village the restaurant of choice was the hotel of choice. Another nice meal washed down by a couple of beers. While Bill had his tea John and Pen sorted out the MP3 for a bout of "The Hogfather".

By 22:00 all parties had settled for the night.

Saturday 2 August

Selchuk

A somewhat earlier start. Breakfast by 09:00 and on the move by 10:00, heading for Aphrodisia. Aphrodisia was attained easily. It is remarkably well set up for visitors and shows an extensive city. The circular walk could be taken at one's own speed. A drink and it was time to move on.

30 km on and we drive into Selchuk. Parking is a major problem - there is none! Once settled in Bill goes on the Internet and John and Pen lounge by the pool.

By 17:00 and a drink later it is time to wander the town. The outdoor market is one attraction as are the nesting herons on the ancient pillars and not so ancient rooftops. Another drink and a discussion as to the following days agenda before returning to the hotel for a shower before dinner, with assistance from Ayaz, a very young helper, getting the towels.

Richard (http://wanderphotos.com) one of the backpacking assistants.

Sunday 3 August

Breakfast at 08:00 so ready for departure at 09:10. Urvetsu was the very animated guide for Ephesus. Audio Guide available for rent only. Done by one and back to the hotel.

Once back to the car it was not long before we were moving out of town. Soon after we were on the motorway. Coming off the motorway on the other side of Ismir still had us well in the suburbs and crawling out of them took some time. Once clear of that we then had heavy traffic with only occasional clear spells until we came to "" at about 17:15.

The 'hotel' opted for was the "Acar" which we overshot and had to turn around for. Having turned round a Mercedes decided to overtake and came head on to us. We came to a complete stop while the other driver still seemed to complain we were on the road! We reached the hotel without further incident and are greeted at the hotel by Mercur who only speaks Turkish. However, he pulls out a Turkish speaking Belgean who John communicates with in French.

Settle in then time for a swim. The pebble beach meant only the foolhardy got wet, ie John. A short walk later and we returned to the accommodation which left the next problem - food.

Showered later and we ask Byrom, in German, for directions to a restaurant. The one directed to is at the top of the hill, "Dede Pinaor". This is not reached at the first attempt, however it was found on the second and was an open air eatery which meant a competition with the wasps when the food arrived. The food was fresh and wholesome and very reasonably priced, however no alcohol although it did transpire that Coke and Fanta were available.

In darkness we returned to the hotel and immediately had our alcoholic intake. No midnight swim in light of the insect life and the pebble beach! Restless and warm night with occasional flying atttacks and counterstrike sprays. Pen came through with two visitations!]

Monday 4 August

Cannakle (Troy)

Breakfast at 09:00 followed by goodbyes and a steady run through to Troy.

A walk round the ruins after the necessary picture of the horse and climb into the same.

On departure from Troy we had a nice run up to Cannakkale with a splendid view down the Dardenelles, but no chance for a picture. A slight to and fro and we decided to go through the town centre to find the Ferry, which posed a slight problem when we found it in that we did not have a ticket – this was purchased (nine million) at speed and justly so, we were the third last squeezed onto the boat!

A nice short trip across the water and an expected chaotic disembarcation, which is typical anywhere in the world. Off the boat and into a restaurant for a drink and a snack. Then a drive around part of the Dardanelle's War Memorials leaving by way of Badali and back to where we turned off the main road in the first place. On for a short while to the Boncuk Otel near Gelibolu where we pay twice the rate we have been paying, but we do get a fridge, water view, peace and quiet as well as soap towels shampoo and a few other little knick knacks!

A swim in the pool by John and drinks by Bill and Pen later and food starts to take over in the considerations. By 19:00 we are on the road into Gelibolu to see what there is.

Gelibolu is small, very small, but has a lot, a very large number of eateries. We opted for the "Ishan" and settled for five mezes. Two were not available so we substituted. Three arrived and the remaining two (Pen's) were fought for with the waiter after a ten minute wait. The next course, which Bill and John had, went smoothly although the waiter seemed to be keeping a wide berth! Sweet was dropped and Bill took tea to close the show for less than thirty million.

A steady drive back to the ranch in darkness for a picture of the lit up cart and then nightly repose.

Tuesday 5 August

Istanbul

Early morning rise for 08:00, but breakfast held off till 09:00. John had a swim before breakfast, which itself was a somewhat meagre affair. Time to pay before going on to the open road.

At Sarkoy we turn of the new road and go to the village where, after a little indecision, we drive through the place and emerge on what we take to be the "coast road". This turns out to be correct and after about ten kilometres the tarmac changes to track and we immediately have to traverse a stretch undergoing maintenance. Here we encounter the roughest stretch of all. However, negotiated, we continue to some very impressive scenery and breathtaking curves where the track narrows!

This went on for about twenty kilometres, in so doing passing through a village, but in due course the blacktop returned; town signs did not! A couple of indecisions later and we finally broke through to Tekdirag. Taking the road on we stopped twice. The second time at Silivri, in a very nicely set cafe, not selling beer, much to Pen's displeasure. After eating we walked on and stopped at another cafe, beer stop this time, before returning to the car and continuing on to Istanbul where John grappled with the traffic while the traffic grappled with him and under pen's direction weaved through the traffic and worked through Istanbul coming directly to the hotel in one run with the fuel getting close to what it was when the car was collected!

3500 kilometres travelled.

Pulling up at the hotel, the car was abandoned to the hotel staff. Booking in was expedited and once in the room calls were made concerning the bus to the airport and the collection of the car. Saif collected the car and noted a special car wash was needed for the tar we had picked up. 5 million was given up and that episode was concluded. Time for John and Penny to book the rooftop restaurant (with Ismet) and go for a swim before dinner while Bill coughed up 130 Million for a "Trip to Anadolu" and "Istanbul by Night".

Cordon Bleu Haute Cuisine meal - you guessed it: gnat food.

Last bedtime for this trip in Turkey.

Wednesday 6 August

15:30 IST to AMM. Night in Amman

Up for 08:30 and into the racetrack for breakfast. Once sorted here, the return to the room was punctuated by repacking and going out to get some "Tang". Then it was a case of waiting for 12:30 or the pickup. The bus came on time, but it took time for the agent to find us - messages were not relayed properly.

Next came the collection of eight other people, many with more luggage than ourselves. Once done the bus moved off. A few kilometres short of the airport the bus had a puncture. From 13:25 to 13:45 the driver changed the tyre with the bus fully loaded - we were in the middle of a main roadway so not deemed safe to get out!

Once at the airport we came to a full stop as a queue formed behind some people who were ‘waiting’! Again once moving we did not move far. There were stops at the check in counter and another at immigration departure.

Once done with the bureaucracy we had a brief flash through Duty Free before a coffee and a final wait for boarding.

The flight was noted for the usual on board electrical problems and the arrival at Amman airport was punctuated by the abundance of ‘helpful’ porters.

The bus for the hotel finally arrived and after a hitch at check in finally got and settled into a room. Dinner was taken in the dining room being waited on by Zaid.

A quiet close.

Thursday 7 August

Up for 09:30 although we did not know it until we got downstairs. Breakfast was in a large room and a smash and grab affair, although quiet civilised for all that.

Up in the room we change for the pool and back down in the lobby we looked out for the Royal Tours Rep to no avail. We also made an attempt to confirm the return flights, but Jordanian efficiency blocked the move.

The pool was infested with children. As soon as the pool was opened the body of water became just a mass of small bodies.

Back to find the rep. Ayham on desk. First pass deferred. Second pass late checkout till our after he recognised Penny from our previous trip to Jordan!

Spent most of time in room watching TV.

We check out of the room at four and have a leisurely meal till five. After that we sat outside in the terrace, but we still had an hour to spare. In discussions we mooted the sensibility of having gone straight through to Istanbul and spent the Dead Sea days at this end before going on to Cyprus - there were notable merits, but hindsight colours things ‘rosy’ as waiting around makes things ‘bluer’.

A drink in the bar took us to ten to seven when we went for the bus. No driver for ten minutes after which we went to the terminal and checked in. Once through the paperwork at the airport, it was time to negotiate the Duty Free, which did not take long. A coffee helped to while away some time and then off to the gate for another wait.

A short flight followed by a quick disembarkation in Cyprus. Pen got the baggage went to change the travellers’ cheques and get the Royal Jordanian office. Travellers’ cheques would not be exchanged, the Royal Jordanian Desk was inside departures - all in all an auspicious start!

The car was better than expected, although it took some finding and had a car seat still affixed.

The hotel when found eventually. It looked extremely dowdy - if one were not to be critical! At one in the morning Pen's bed collapsed. The next room given, although it had a small Queen bed, as opposed to twin together, was smaller.

Friday 8 August

Four Lanterns

Forest Park 1

Up by nine to a breakfast disaster: stale bread and overcooked food, all one comes to expect of a British start to the day.

The road out was to Cape Kiti. Looking for a ‘final night’ room we had two options, both turned out to be unavailable. A couple tries more down the road and the option was taken to get to Forest Park and leave the problem for later.

En route we came to a waterfall, CYP 2 (CYP1 = £1.08) entry, but worth a visit when with swimwear. Onwards.

Found the hotel after only a little fuss and first impressions were good. Once unpacked, it was time to settle in. Before the swim it rained. During the swim it rained. Pen became less impressed. We decided to go see Joan and Neil's house.

Two and a half hour later (Pen was even less impressed) we had seen it and gone onto Lara's Place - a cafe/restaurant off road some way past the house. Going on we took a rough track into the hills and worked on to Polis. From there we kept to the coast road until forced inland by Turkish Territory onto track again which became road and thin track, where we saw a deer and a hare, again then finally road beyond Kempos. On to Troodos and then down to Platres in 5 or 6 hours! Three quarters of a tank of petrol used and Pen was now really pissed off!

Saturday 9 August

Forest Park 2

Up by nine for breakfast, which turned out to be something of a British breakfast mess.

Petrol was the next order of business. This was relatively easily and led to the next item on the agenda: a drive round the mountain.

Back and past the hotel then onto Troodos. Neat on up to the top of Mount Olympos then down for a drink half way down. Onwards to Kato Amientos, where we went round in circles till we took an unsigned track! After much to-ing and fro-ing we came out by the fish farm.

Back at the hotel we tried lunch (OK Surprised). After a drink; Yiolande serves behind the bar.

Time by the poolside then a walk through village followed by another drink.

Time to catch up lost data before ‘Crash Out’!

Sunday 10 August

Forest Park 3

Similar breakfast to yesterday, then attempt at Internet failed (system fault) even though Sofianna tried to help. Passed Maria, the maid, in the corridor. Time to truck.

As soon as we were on the track Pen took the wheel. Not a very long track, but several spectacular viewpoints and one unknown sign on the road in Greek. We parked the car in Troodos then wandered a bit before dropping into the ‘Fereos’ for a bite and slurp. Time to find the old road to Platres.

That was brief with a crush to the entry to the waterfalls. Back at the ranch time to open up the cherry wine. Not to Pen's taste; a bit like cherry brandy.

Pen stayed at the ranch while John headed of for petrol and the Millomeri falls. He failed on petrol; beaten by technology. As for the falls - he needed to park the car back at the hotel and walk all the way!

John showered at the falls and back at the hotel, having stopped off twice for drinks!

Once showered, John checked the Internet and, with no message from Jenny, rang her to find out what was happening with Ranjeet's visa. Good news: full steam ahead.

‘Village Tavern’ for dinner. Cypriot Mezzes, although there was a lot not liked, there was so much offered that it was hard not to be stuffed. Washed down with Keo Cabinet Sauvignon - nice. Coffee to end; cannot face sweet! Final cost, including tax and VAT, was just below CYP 25. Agis is the waiter/owner. Rooms are available at CYP 10 a night!

Downtime.

Monday 11 August

Forest Park 4

Very late start, rising at ten! Flights confirmed. Off to get petrol and go to the bank then take the road to Troodos and the Dolphin cafe. Once done there it is time to go on.

Prodromos, Pedoulas then Kykkos. At this point confusion reigns. The map and roads do not align! Test and scout then time to decide, but a wrong choice made so we start again! We head for Pera Vasa. Track, road and track later before we emerge at Foini and are soon back at the Forest Park.

Half an hour and it is time to go again. This time to the Kaledonia Falls. Parked the car at the fish farm and went up and up and up. The falls themselves are nice, but not as good as the Millomeri falls.

Dinner time unearthed a surprise! The eateries have their own weekend. Our first two choices were closed and a drive round the Village gave us only one option: "Ho Anoi". Food of quality we have come to expect in Cyprus!

Back at the Hotel we go to the bar after finding a very nice parking spot! While waiting for service we end up talking to the owner.

Bedtime.

Tuesday 12 August

Late up once again. However, by ten we had packed and we were ready to roll.

First stop was the waterfalls we passed when coming up. Although not big, they had been set up well for visitors. From there onwards, or more correctly downwards to Limassol, where we shuttled from one hotel/resort to another until we settled on the St. Raphael, on the second pass: a very nice hotel with good facilities.

Pen settled is while John went to get the car washed. Once done both slobbed out on the beach; swimming, eating and drinking.

By five enough was enough so they took to the room, showered and caught up with the day's events.

Come seven and we look for food in vain. The places do not open up till seven thirty. We bided our time in bar on the terrace then headed to the eatery at the appointed time.

Emilia served us and Elias sorted the wine: Bellapais Rose. The food was EXCELLENT. The meal even had Cypriot dances, one doing the glass dance! After the meal we repaired to the bar where Pen took out two double brandies while John wiped out two coffees and two cointreaus.

Wipe out!

Wednesday 13 August

LCA - AMM 09:15

AMM - AUH 11:30

Woken by the sound of Dawn breaking! Two sleepy people staggered about aimlessly until a coffee infusion, then to the lifeboat for a half hour drive to the airport. Car returned, checked in and we are ready to go. A quick 50 min flight to Amman, where we get off the plane, walk in a great big circle round the airport then climb back onto the same plane with a different crew! Such is life.

A smooth flight, only notable for the large number of children stampeding around the aisles and the lack of workable audio units. This left me literally watching ''Anger Management"!

Immigration went smoothly with Pen only held up a little. Once through, Pen waited for the bags while John went to sort the car, being stopped on the way by customs.

Everything come together with a slight hitch on the odometer difference between going and coming. This was found to be 50 km later, more acceptable than 160 km first estimate!

Once home time to sort out everything from luggage items to items of software and resolve electronic problems.

Food from 'Kowloon' then time to crash out.

Thursday 14 August

Jenny and Co. arrival DXB

A quiet start and one spent trying to correct the problem caused by the pocket book's tantrum.

By five Pen was going stir crazy and sought release by going to Joan and Neil's. There, news was exchanged and a fondu practically displayed taking us up to eight when the need to go to Dubai became paramount.

Back to the flat to pick up needed items, but as to be expected one item was neglected: car battery booster.

The trip to Dubai was smooth and booking into the hotel easy. Problems started with the return to the car. The battery was not up to starting the car only after a few minutes after the drive from Abu Dhabi! Problem left for the next day.

Pen and John then took a taxi from the hotel to the airport. Submission of the visa was simplicity and we then set to the long wait.

By twelve all had come through. By one everyone was seated in the pub and by two all were in bed.

Lights out.

Friday 15 August

Richard arrives: DXB

John was up by six and made his way to the airport. The plane came in about 06:30. John's attempt to intercept Richard failed. After no sign of him after an hour an a half John started making enquires. Despite frequent returns to the exit lounge, Richard breezed out and off on the bus for the hotel.

Two and a half hours after the start of John’s vigil, Pen rang to say that Richard was at the hotel, however Joe had the wrong bag from the previous night! John had to stay at the airport!

John was joined by Joe and Ranjeet at the airport and the bag problem was resolved. All returned to the hotel and all but Pen went for a swim to cool down.

By eleven departure to Abu Dhabi came to the fore. While all packed, John went to see about the car which had just enough power to kick over. From there till the return to the flat in Abu Dhabi the car was left running!

The car was stuffed with baggage and people while Pen sorted out the rooms at reception. The car and occupants worked round to the front of the hotel and, once joined by Pen, the trip to Abu Dhabi started in earnest.

A steady two hour trip, including a half hour stop, brought all to the end of this part of the story.

John and Pen’s Damage Report

Dh 14300 Omeir

Dh 2000 Cyprus Hotels

Dh 5500 Traveller’s cheques

Dh 3700 Cash

Dh 600 Jordanian currency

Dh 2000 Cyprus Car Hire

Dh 520 St Raphael

Dh 6000 Pen’s Credit Card

Dh 2000 John’s Credit Card

Dh 36620 Total

Dh 2000 John’s Carpet (Not included in total!)

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