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Nile Cruise |
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January 2003: Nile Cruise
Thursday 16 January Went to Omeir travel to look at short trip possibilities. Narrowed down to one: a seven-day trip to Egypt and a four-day trip to Thailand (Chang Mai). What we did not notice, before we were sold on the idea, was the cost for Egypt did NOT include international air fare. With no desire to look back, decided it was the way to go. Once back at the flat found an e.mail from travel agent reference the trip giving details of flight bookings. Saturday 18 January Back to Omeir to confirm trip and pay deposit. Tried to pay for all, but would not accept since 'it was not confirmed'. Sunday 19 January Quiet day with no notable action, only plans for what to do and questions to ask. Big question to resolve is whether to take the MP3 or not. A lot hangs on this decision! Separate to the trip is the pending state of the housing contract. GHQ claim the contract has not had enough time to get to the landlord having started its trek on Dec 24! This says a lot about mindset. Question is whether it is military or not! Monday 20 January Tickets ready and pieces all confirmed. Go to see the travel agent and pay the balance for the trip - another Dh 8000. Then off to get some money changed. We already have USD 360, but we get another USD 340 more and Dh 500 of Egyptian Pounds. Dinner at Hemmingways. Tuesday 21 January Projected long day at TSI. Half the staff disappear within the first couple of hour with 'various hospital' appointments. Allowed to leave work at two thirty. Wednesday 22 January Leave work early, 11:30, 'to get to the airport for the flight', AUH-CAI, at 14:30, GF 75V. Actually, most of non-Western staff, and some of the similarly inclined Western, had already gone. Shane got the clearance to go with me so after a call to Pen I routed via the flat and picked up Pen. Car passed over to Fast with instructions and we went to check-in and joined a small, but burdened queue! Once clear of the 'weight' of people we walked headlong into a Hajj queue. Clear of that we moved quickly and smoothly onto Duty Free then the boarding area. Boarding actually occurred at 2:10 and the plane was moving by 2:45 Arrival in Cairo at 5:05, local time, after a, near enough, four hour flight. Met at the airport, before passport control, by Sobal representative Maged who skillfully steered us through the visa, passport control, baggage reclaim, entry customs and to the coach. The drive to the hotel was breathtaking. Not to be recommended for the weak hearted! Big decision on where to eat. Choice of eleven eateries. First night in Cairo: Ramses Hilton. Thursday 23 January Breakfast and tour of Egyptian Museum and Pyramids. Picked up by Maged and Mohammed, the tour guide for the day. Out into the traffic and off to the museum. Early enough at the museum to avoid large queues. Inside lots of exhibits, but more interesting was the ongoing comments by Mohammed the guide. The personal care is well worth the extra cost. Once done there, on to a papyrus shop where we ended up buying two pictures despite our initial doubts. Next on to the Pyramids and a camel ride to the sphinx with Atef as our handler. An interesting idea came up. A week long came ride and camp to an oasis - 'laf y yum', well something like that! Before returning to the hotel, a visit to a jewelry shop where, despite the wealth of offerings, the only objects near to any interest were two enameled cartouches which were possible earrings. The price was too unrealistic to pursue. 5:00 and time for a coffee. Pen switched to a shesha and I added strawberries and cream. All very nice. 'Windows on the World' for dinner at 7:00. Not the greatest hit for Pen since her 'rack of lamb' choice was not available and the rest of the offerings did not hold her attention at all well. I, on the other hand, landed well after making a small alteration to the set menu by avoiding the 'chocolate death'. Pen's chagrine was piqued further when there we found that Remy was not available. Some days you just cannot win. Second night in Cairo: Ramses Hilton. Friday 24 January Breakfast, Sakkara and Dashour. Longer trip by 'car'. The first, step, pyramid had a well preserved freeze in each of the secondary tombs. The primary was not open for public access. From there, on to Dashour. Pen declined the climb and scrabble. This had a 'standard' tomb access and the 'corridor' is limited but spacious in the tomb and anteroom areas. Notable is the close match of blocks and the height of the vaults. Next came a carpet school (Mena Oriental Carpet) and the inevitable tug for a 'purchase'. The silk road beckoned, but cost limited size so I end up with picture sized one! Three girls were racking away: Fawzea, Ashura, Nifisa. Address: Sakkara, 17 km Sakkara Tourist Road Mohammed - mohali66@hotmail.com Dinner at the Chinese Regent was very pleasant, only marred by the lack of Remy again (also noted non acceptance of the card!). After the meal we ambled down to the foyer for a liquer and shesha. Problems here since no grape or martini (or Remy). Strike three. More fun back at the ranch - toilet problems which required the specialists in for repair. Half an hour later we setled down for the night. Third night in Cairo: Ramses Hilton. Saturday 25 January Breakfast at 5:15 and flight, Cairo- Luxor, at 7:30. Usual tug of war with the bell-boys and was the bill ready after giving twenty minutes warning? The answer was 'yes'. Bonus marks for organisation on that front. However, the check was organised to the degree of confusion. Each entry went down four or five times. First the bill, then the rebate, then service charge, then tax, then another small deduction and at the bottom a municipality tax on the lot! First impressions were of something like 25% to 30% total tax and service charges. Most notable items following were the clear and relatively quiet roads - well it was six in the morning, and the chaos at the airport despite the relatively small number of people - attributed to the 'push harder - go faster' syndrome . . . even though it makes no difference at the other side! Nobody to meet at Luxor. Start of a farce. Ahmed, Airport Security assisted- no Sobel representative. Directed to taxi (20 EGP), push for 20 each - no way. Before getting onto the boat accosted by 'assistant'. On board and checked in made another call to Mohammed (3 EGP). 11:30 Room becomes available. Big is not the word, but cosy might . . . with a slight stretch of the imagination. However, power is available and the sound system goes on line and is tested very quickly (and is well used in the ensuing days). Baggage is stowed (note the use of nautical terms already!) and we go 'on deck' via the 'pursers office' to give the key to 134 which has landed in our room (being 135). An enquiry about a pharmacy has the order sent on shore for collection while Pen and I settle with the Sobol agent to explain why no reception at the airport. He also had the taxi refund, which he offered without prompting thus releasing the steam build up. We signed up for the Karnack 'light and sound show'. 1:00 Lunch (Table 4 together with six other people) 2:00 Meet with George - boat guide - Arabic reprimand for late coming. Asmi at purser's office 2:30 Tour of East bank: Luxor and Karnak Temples. Left boat bang on time, but coach held up till 2:45 by 'tardies' of expected inclination. Karnak, a complex not just one temple. 7:15 Karnak Temple light and sound show ($20 each, bakshish extra). Good, but time frozen. It would have been excellent five to ten years ago, but it has not been developed. Dinner, of sorts, and first night on board the boat. Sunday 26 January 6:00 Breakfast, well not actually, it should be for 7:00, only one juice. Fruit salad good. Several people unhappy with George because of the confusion generated by twin timings. 7:00, no . . . eight! Tour of West bank: Valley of the Kings, Colossi of Memnon Pleasant drive to Valley of Kings with info and advice given by George in his now standard style. Through the market and then the toy train. 9:35 and through the gate after crowded clutter. Ramses VIII? Ramses III: The ‘dog-legged’ tomb. Lots of drawings and pictures. Me alone to Tutmosis III, long stairs up into a gully, then a series of three downs through frescoed walls that are not as artistic as the other tombs but show the evolving ideas. Got back to meet place late. Pen had held back, but by the time we had got back to the coach, Green PNC No 3, we were about ten minutes later than targeted. Hatshepsut (hot shit soup) Temple. First views are impressive, but there is only so much impression a pile of rocks can make. More impressive and lasting is the story of her reign and the reign of her successor. At the Alabaster shop Saeed was part of getting Pen her malachite cat at EGP 1200. Now two succours ride the boat! Lunch was reasonable, although hungry people are less critical than those who seek to eat! During lunch the boat sets sail to Esna and the lock. Pen looks forward to a rest. Ra Fat - at the shop where we get some cotton tops 7:30 Dinner Second night on board the boat. Monday 27 January 3:00 Preparations for lock passage. 4:40 to 5:10 Through lock and sail to Edfu. 7:00 Breakfast 8:00 Well it ended up as 9:00 without being posted on the board. Tour of Edfu Temple. Notable for its intact size and stories. Rush back to boat for 10:30, now 11:00, sail to Kom Ombo although we do not move for half an hour after we get back. Lunch, but a beer first after being disturbed by Pen hungry for food! George dropped hint for getting into lunch early and, although we were in before the main crash, it was not deemed the best ideaa. Better to hold off for twenty to thirty minutes and let the crush subside even though pieces tended to be left. 16:00 Tour of Kom Ombo Temples. Well, actually, we arrived at 5:00, left and arrived again at 5:30! Not worth explaining the high degree of organisational skill for this manouevre! Then the gangplank went south a series of times! Pen didn't bother leaving the boat and had a story of her own to tell. Finally moving by 6:15. Split from group so wander till 7:25. Then to meeting point. Met up with George and have a short chat, but guess what arrival at 7:42/7:50! (meet time was set at 20 to 8) Head for approximate location of ship at 7:50. Pen's story was of a series of moves up and down stream and a series of scrapes and bumps until the mooring location was almost settled. Summary of Kom Ombo - inverse dedication to the Discworld milkman Ronnie Soak! Sail to Aswan. Dinner (Fancy dress) and third night on board the boat. Tuesday 28 January 7:00 Breakfast after 6:30 call. Aswan is about 1000 km south of Cairo. Entymology of 'Aswan' Orig - Sceen: market city Greco - Suun Roman - Swan Arabic - Al Swan Philae Temple - Protector Stories, tales and legends. Most outstanding is the 40 year love story - improbable since the couple would have children when the woman was in her middle to late fifties . . . at least! Tour of High Dam and Obelisk. No video or zoom cameras allowed - Military area. Some ideas permeate everywhere showing evident sense! Difficult to gauge size since the dam is so wide. Other information imparted relates to the Cataracts Hotel and its terraces. Because of traffic volume access to the terraces is severely limited and costs are 'high'. Visit to a perfume factory had some entertainment value. 1:30 Lunch Felucca ride past Botanical Gardens (aka Kitchner's Island) and Agha Kahn. Low wind resulted in problems. Despite a valiant effort by the two man crew assistance was taken from a motor boat used as a tug. Wind on the return was also light and often the drift was just the stream current, but leisurely is the word, speed was not a problem, although the same could not be said for others. 7:20 Dinner: Light with mild taste: OK for me, but a disaster for Pen. Looking o a decent meal at the Ramses. Fourth night on board boat. Wednesday 29 January Official check out at 8:00 am, but we get an extension to midday. Breakfast: 8:15 and the buffet has been picked clean! The waiters get a fruit salad for me, but it lacks the marination. Others arrive later than we did, if one can call our arrival late! Goodbyes given to the remainder in the table group and we enquire as to the 'delux' rooms. note that they take up three cabin berths in two rooms and have a single large bed as well as a TV. Worth note if we cruise again. 12:30: Meet with Sobal Representative for trip to airport and fun for flight to Cairo. Hilarity at the airport lounge when I finally got the strength of coffee that is my preference. Noting it was too weak for one of the waiters I note that if h pays for the coffee, he gets it as he likes it, I paid for the coffee so I get it as I like it! Flight delayed to 15:15 then again to 15:45. Boarded and moving by 16:00. Advance safety feature - the exits! 800 kph at over 7 km high. Toshca Project Dinner with lots of lovely bread. Pen had lentil soup followed by her favourite, sea bass, while I went for Harvest of the sea followed by Beef tenderloin and lots and lots of bread. One bottle of the Grand Marquis was followed b a second, although we only got half way through it. The rest was taken up to the room. Sweet was followed by coffee and liquers. The end of the meal was marked by a raucous noise; a 'traditional' wedding reception. Overnight in Cairo: Ramses Hilton. Thursday 30 January Breakfast with me not able to face food square in the face! Over the road to the shopping centre where it is shoes, shoes and more shoes on each of the seven levels and a cinema at the top. Pen lands four pairs and a leather bag for less than one hundred quid. Then a beer and an ice cream for me at the ground floor level and time to rush off and check out! 14:00 Head to airport for the return flight, CAI-AUH, GF76Vat 17:25. Traffic was thicker than ever as a consequence of a football match. Cars with flags hanging out were common, as were cars with people hanging out! At the airport, Maged creamed through the check in for us after we had to negotiate the mayhem of the security check crunch and bustle. He left us when we proceeded through to the departure lounge. Two hour to wait now and the 'Duty Free' is not particularly invigorating. Flight departure delayed to 17:45. Boarding started before five and we were in the air before six with four hours flying to go before the the intercept in Abu Dhabi. Landed and cleared around 11:30. Time for the intercept. Mum Flies into Abu Dhabi at 23:55. Actually she never got out of Leeds! 24 hr shift. Friday 31 January Rest day? Saturday 1 February Back to work.
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