Part 3: Kenya

Friday 14 July: Day 10

Windhoek - Johannesburg - Nairobi - Mombassa: 4500 km

Return flight to Johannesburg at 07:00. 60 km 1 hr trip in the early morning.

A wake up call by the hotel and both alarms worked well and we were on the airport road racetrack by 05:20 with fogged up windows all round.

It seemed like we were ages getting through the airport, but it only took twenty minutes, during which time it came to light that the car was due for return on July 25! Yet again the 'organisation' of this holiday by the agents makes us wonder.

The plan: Leave Johannesburg for Nairobi at 11:50 getting into Nairobi at 16:50. Leave at 19:00 for Mombassa, which we get to at 20:00. Our first night in Kenya and at the Nyali Beach Hotel.

The fact: We flew into a Johannesburg temperature of 14 oC, then the temperature went sky high as all hell broke loose. The flights reservations from Windhoek to Johannesburg had been cancelled, even though we had just flown it (obviously space available), the flight reservations from Johannesburg to Nairobi and Nairobi to Mombassa had also been cancelled (in April and no spaces now!) and we are not sure of the hotel reservation.

A call to Sharnel Harty showed that Emirates/Manoj dealt with the forward booking and not TNT. Being Friday Emirates are closed and, as yet, we have no number for Nyali Beach.

At the transfer desk a Maria Raath (Kenyan Airways/KLM) tried to expedite us on our way with great calm and patience as we felt the ghosts creep in. We left her, without a seat, for half an hour to try and make a call to the travel agents to see what could be done there.

The phone kiosk was across the other side of the airport and once there we had no small change. The attendant allowed us to make a local call to Sharnel Harty at TNT who told us that she only dealt with the Namibian end of the trip. An attempt to get through to the UAE proved futile on two counts, a) it was Friday (Sod's law) and b) the system informed us that the number had been changed!

We returned to Maria who still had nothing to offer other than turn a blind eye while Pen sucked down two cigarettes in an attempt to calm her fraying nerves. Twenty minutes later Maria gave us boarding cards and we promptly scorched a track to the departure gate only to wait for half an hour before boarding started.

When boarding started we waited till almost last and finally got onto the plane. Pen stopped in business class, I assume to wait for people to stow their gear, then she told me to stow our bags and then sat down!

The reason why we were on the plane suddenly became apparent - we had been bumped us from economy up to business class. Good one Maria. We both owe you a big kiss.

The flight was a luxury and we had already experienced that in Namibia. One could fold ones feet under one, tilt the seat without crushing the passenger behind and had legroom to spare.

The film shown was 'Galaxy Quest', a Mickey take of 'Startrek' done in the best possible taste and funny with it.

Before we landed, Mount Kilimanjaro was visible, snow capped on the right, our side! Regardless of what happened in Nairobi, the flight had been really special.

We arrived in Nairobi for 17:10, breezed through Passport Control and collected our bags. Now for the next potato to peel!

We trolleyed over to the domestic terminal and while I hovered like a pregnant guppy Pen queued at the check-in desk. No eyes fluttered or glances made and the bags were transferred over and tickets exchanged. The couple before Pen were on the waiting list for Mombassa. Was Maria still working her magic I wonder?

Still in a mixture of shock and disbelief, we went through the security check to wait for the flight.

One big potato still to peel (I gave up counting the little ones today after the third heart attack)!

The Boeing 737-200, registration 5Y-KQK, took off at 19:00 and landed in Mombassa forty five minutes later. As we exited the airport, actually according to the original schedule we were given, we were relieved to find an Emirates Holiday representative who was expecting us. He, Franklin, and the driver, Albert, whisked two very relieved travellers off to the Nyali Beach Hotel where said exhausted individuals boogied away the night in celebration.

Actually we had a short walk, a drink and a bite to eat and flopped into bed thanking our lucky stars and Maria from KLM in Johannesburg!

Saturday 15 July: Day 11

Nyali Beach Hotel: Mombassa: Day 1

A day to explore, orientate ourselves and generally laze while we come down from the adrenaline high of yesterday.

All the rooms look out on the sea and we are on the third floor looking out over the trees.

Thomson, Hayes and Jarvis, Kuoni and Thomas Cook are just some of the operators that use Nyali Beach.

The Beach Hotel is set is very large grounds, but we have already found the watersports centre and found that they are closed today! The reason was tied to a lunch visit by an African Prime Minister, the place was crawling with people with mobile communication units.

We tried to avoid the crowd and stayed by one of the smaller pools. The pool attendant, Elkana, administered to our needs.

While we there, the Somak representative (the Emirates contact) found us and checked on our status. He was called Julius and was very confident and efficient. He took the return flight details to confirm our return flights.

While he was there we arranged an overnight trip to Shimba Rainforest Lodge, Pen still want to see some Lemurs. When we get back we then wander off on a half-day trip round Mombassa. It looks like we cannot stay still, even for a few days. My excuse is that it is so boring sitting around in one place!

The evening meal looked good, tasted all right, but suffered one of the common buffet problems. It was cold. The wine, a South African Rose, was quite nice. We will eat elsewhere tomorrow!

Sunday 16 July: Day 12

Nyali Beach Hotel: Mombassa: Day 2

The day dawned full of promise. After breakfast we ambled down to the dive centre to meet George and Bakari and be given the low down on the diving scene. Then shock and horror set in.

We would be lucky to get one dive a day (Initially, the reason for coming to Kenya was to dive), one dive a day was a total joke. Thank goodness we had sorted out some trips otherwise a straight jacket would be required.

As for diving today, it looks bad. I want to go to the Comoros!

A minor problem surfaced in the morning. A check on my tablets showed a deficiency before getting back to the Emirates. Fortunately, for once, the doctor was in the Hotel and he will organise with a pharmacist to get what I need by tomorrow, which gives me a four-day leeway if things do hiccup.

We then met up with the Dive Instructor, a young girl by the name of Chris, at about 13:00 and a definite 'no diving today'. That was bad enough, but confirmation of the earlier bad news followed. One dive tomorrow, with only a possibility of two. Friday, Saturday and Sunday are one-dive only days for definite! I really do want to be in the Comoros!

So now we have another day of hanging about like loose ends.

Useless information: 'Jambo' is the greeting here, like 'Hello'. The response is 'Missouri sana' which apparently means 'fine very'.

Finally got to a computer with an Internet connection to find not a lot, but I did send off a message to Richard. On for 15 minutes and expect to be charged about £6!

Tomorrow holds much promise, what with diving, pictures coming back from development and a top up of my medication.

Dinner was extended by long gaps between courses, but was much more civilised than the bull run of the buffet and, to be noted, the food was hot. The wine was a pleasant Spanish sparkling wine, but not in the same class as the South African wines in Namibia.

Back in the room and 'Pretty Woman' was on TV.

Monday 17 July: Day 13

Nyali Beach Hotel: Mombassa: Day 3

Breakfast was missed so, over coffee in the room, a plan of action was formulated. We would take it easy.

Ready for diving at 12:45 and chauffeured in a holy Isuzu Trooper. It was a race between the Trooper going down a pot hole or us through the holes in the Trooper. We arrived at the Traveller's Hotel with neither event occurring.

Waiting for the incoming boat took longer than anyone expected, time for a coke, which was ordered from the factory in America! Drink drunk, the boat finally came and divers piled aboard. Next stop another hotel for more divers and then, finally, on our way to a rendezvous point inside the reef where we drop off a passenger. Then along and out into the 8 foot waves of the Indian Ocean. Spray splashed over the boat as the two small 48 hp motors pluckily churned the water. The boat went up, we went up, the boat came down, we stayed up then came down.

Time for the dive, a drift by Shark Point. Into the murk we plunged, down the barnacle encrusted buoy rope. BIG groupers assorted others, a few lions, banners and unicorns. Pen saw a small nude and I picked up on what can best be described as a zebra fish. Other notables were small rays, which seemed to be in abundance. Oddity spotted by Bakari was a crayfish without antennae! BIG moray. Best described as a quiet, but pleasant, dive.

Up and into a strong swell. Clamber into the boat and everybody sees dolphins except me! I did see the flying fish, as everybody else did! Pineapple and guava was available to keep the food from coming up while we rocked and rolled in the boat.

Into the lee of the reef to drop off two of the divers. Back out into the Indian Ocean to meet up with the dolphins and I did see them this time! Dive two was a gang bang to Brain Coral. Everybody stayed together, all six of us and it did get congested down there. We saw much the same as the first time, but with more morays and better lions, a baby angel, a big bat but no sharks.

Up to more pineapple and an even queasier set of stomachs, but we all survived the re-entry to the safety of the lagoon.

Passengers dropped off at the various hotels and we set to rinsing the gear we were leaving then onto the low-ways and byways back to our hotel, which, from what we had seen of the others, was one of the best about!

Back at base and Dubois was ordered for our dehydrated bodies.

Shower, gear rinsed and time for dinner. The main dining Hall was given a second chance and it did itself proud with a semi buffet cum 'a la carte' all washed down with another bottle of Dubois. A really nice meal.

Tuesday 18 July: Day 14

Shimba Lodge: Kenya: Day 4

A message under the door this morning, assumedly from Somak, asked us to meet at 13:00. So a lazy move to midday starting with a long breakfast and a second lie in for me while Pen played on her pocket book.

By 12:40 we were downstairs waiting for a drink while we whiled away the final minutes on a wind buffeted 28 oC veranda.

13:00 was the 'meet the rep time' who was Sajjid, another very efficient and competent young man. Departure was 14:00. Were we miffed?

More Swahili;

Wha-henta sana - thank you

Wha-herri - goodbye

Pauli pauli - slowly

14:00 came and so did Posta, our driver to Shimba, with a minibus that had seen better days in other countries. We rattled through Mombassa to the Ferry. There we were swamped, in a very civilised way, by local vendors prior to boarding.

On the other side more vendors and shacks, which gradually thinned as we moved out into the country. Up hill and down dale without a quiet spot anywhere, the place fair seethed with life until we came to a junction. Tanzania, 250 km straight on, and Shimba to the right. More hills and dales and then we enter the Shimba Reserve and are greeted by baboons before turning off for the Lodge, which is about twelve years old and down a hefty slope. Fun getting out in the wet!

Welcomed by Omar and shown to our room by Lawrence. The place is very eco sensitive. Guest are asked to talk quietly so as not to disturb the crickets. The room has a small entrance with a vanity unit and leads to the two separate beds (each covered with a Mossi net) and straight out onto a tiny veranda. Compact is one description, quaint is another yet the place is very nice and has a homely feel about it.

Down for coffee and sandwiches, a chat with the chef and a view of an eagle and a couple of monitor lizards and it is time for the first of two game drives while we are here.

The area is similar to the English countryside, but the animal life we saw included buffalo, sable, elephant, wart hog, ostrich and giraffe. More like Longleat and certainly cool enough! Spotted a Colobus monkey on the way back to the Lodge and within the Lodge grounds some small antelope just off the road. Back at the Lodge and in the bar in time for the Bushbabies!

Which brings us to dinner, which was held on an open veranda overlooking the waterhole near the Lodge, with frogs warbling and crickets chirping noisily about us.

Starter was a very tasty piece of melon. About this time Pen spotted what she thinks may have been a Cervolet and was a Civet Cat.

Next came carrot soup and we were already well into our sparkling drink, Swartland from South Africa.

A course of salad came next while we continued to peer at the waterhole looking for signs of wildlife.

The main course was steak, for me, and curry, for Pen. The steak was pleasant although a little chewy. Pen was not smitten by her curry, which seemed to compose potatoes (with rice?) and tomatoes (her pet hate)! Sweet followed, two portions of bread and butter pudding for me, with sweet custard (Pen did not want hers) and a repeat appearance by the Civet Cat.

Finally cheese and biscuits (I didn't bother), this again didn't strike a chord with Pen. Coffee followed with the now perfunctory brandy (for Pen) and Cointreau (for me).

Wednesday 19 July: Day 15

Nyali Beach Hotel: Mombassa: Day 5

06:00 wake up to a downpour for coffee and a game drive. Wet, misty with intermittent rain. Most of the sensible animals had not checked out of their hotel rooms by this time. Even so, we did see elephant, giraffe, ostrich and sable again. Overall, though, a quiet drive.

Back to the Lodge for breakfast and a nap before packing and departing for Nyali at 10:00.

Nyali appeared, after drop offs at two other hotels, two hours later. Time to recover in the room as the rain started after having followed us down from the hills.

A very lethargic day followed with us both trying to find things to do. By the evening we dropped into the bar to while away the time till dinner, which saw us choose the 'Bistro' in favour of the buffet.

Very nice food washed down with 'Veuve du Vernay', a very nice French sparkling wine.

Thursday 20 July: Day 16

Nyali Beach Hotel: Mombassa: Day 6

Half Day Trip round Mombassa

Up for 06:45 with a quick run around the breakfast buffet then into reception for 07:20.

07:25 Start. Juma was driver for the half-day tour of Mombassa with David as the tour guide.

Fort Jesus: Alfred, a quietly spoken young man, took over briefly from David.

Through the old town and to the old port. Then into a shop where, while looking at some gems, I found myself alone with a very convincing salesman. I very nearly ended up buying a 10 carat emerald.

A short stop for coffee and the driver then leaves two passengers and the tour guide behind!

The Hindu Temple and Spice Market followed. After them a trip across the causeway was abruptly halted by a traffic jam, so everybody turned round and went back up the road to get off the Island by either the ferry or the North bridge or down the other, oncoming, side of the dual carriageway!

At the wood handicrafts place pictures were taken of; Habanas with big giraffe, Jeremiah doing an ebony wash and Munyoki working on an elephant.

Others talked to were Bodfus and Alice and a boy, Timothy, and his uncle, Julius. Then Pen saw what she wanted and there was no parting her or myself from it - an ebony hippopotamus with a sneaky grin.

Return 13:00 in time to flop down then, later, a wander down to the pool for a dip in the notably freezing 28 oC water. Wrapped up in two towels trying to get warm, I wondered about the sense of having had a swim!

19:30 and time for a pre dinner drink, then a wander down to the beach and the Mvita Grill.

Red wine Fleur du Cap with starter of mini pizza then oysters for Pen and Tomato soup in a loaf of brad for me, then sorbet, then steak Diane for me, flambéed before us, and the Nyali lobster for Pen which vied with the Fishmarket, then I was alone for the sweet, Pen needed a rest! I went for a fruit Pavlova.

She did rise to a brandy while we waited for the sweet and I fell for my steady friend Cointreau and coffee (with 'After Eight' mints).

Time to float along the seashore prior to making waves towards the room.

Information: Nyali comes from the Swahili Nyari, which means 'Split land', in the sense of a fjord or a creek, similar to that which Mombassa finds itself in.

Friday 21 July: Day 17

Nyali Beach Hotel: Mombassa: Day 7

A very slow start to getting out of bed on both our parts. We finally find enough energy to stumble down for breakfast and meet up with Chris there. Onto the 'Travellers' and once the kit is ready we have a wait while the boat comes. Pen woke me when the boat came. As before, along the coast then out into the Indian Ocean. 'Shark Point' again.

I was slow getting down, but finally joined Pen and Bakari who were circling like sharks waiting for me! Then along the reef with a strong swell rocking us up and down the reef. Plenty of wrasse and unicorns and assorted others but no notable denizens until we came across a group of hanging divers. A few minutes later the reason slipped smoothly out of the gloom - a white tipped reef shark compete with remora. A little further on was a selection of large fish doing the same as the divers, namely, watching the shark. Soon after three small rays put in their appearance. Quiet after that until it was time to join the rock and roll on board the boat.

A long walk from the boat to the shore since the tide was on the way out and a drink while a rain shower ran through, then a drive, while another shower ran through, then out of the truck during a brief calm before watching another shower pass through while we warmed up in our room.

Over lunch we watched some monkeys as further showers came and went and discussed what we would do while it rained, this is something unusual for us!

The afternoon disappeared as the lack of shut eye hit us both with a vengeance. The lack of something active to do other than relax was a contributing factor.

Back to the buffet for dinner and preparation for the penultimate 06:45 start of the holiday!

Wine with dinner was Cape Country, a South African White. It was needed because L'Orangerie slipped in its standing again.

Local Hooch is a coconut liquor called Molazzi.

More Swahili: Hakuna matata - No problem

Saturday 22 July: Day 18

Nyali Beach Hotel: Mombassa: Day 8

Dive at Sand Ray with two crocodile fish, big groupers, parrots, banners and others of the usual sort as well as a dead crayfish, three live white tips and a well hidden octopus and rays.

Lunch then a walk up and down the beach as far as possible in both directions. Some nice rock formations.

Dinner at the Bistro with Droshky, a white wine, we are sure, was the right choice since the buffet was al fresco (more al frigo).

Sunday 23 July: Day 19

Nyali Beach Hotel: Mombassa: Day 9

Up for the last dive of the holiday.

Dropped off at the bank to find the ATM out of action - Sod's Law isn't it!

Organisation for today's dive seemed to be well geared up and we were on the move quite quickly.

Beyond the reef was quite rough, but the boat ploughed on. Once at the buoy for shark point we dropped in and down. Murky throughout we still managed to see numerous fish, two white tips, a big turtle, a scorpion, two small lobster like crustaceans numerous ray, nude, lions and big, big groupers, banners and a baby angel.

Back to the hotel before 11:30. Too fast for food, so time for a drink!

Food came and went, as did rinsing the gear and hanging it out to dry. Now what to do with the rest of the afternoon?

A doze on a lilo in the grounds in a force three gale passed some of the time as did a drink at the pool bar, a swim, a stroll and a return to the room for a shower, watch TV (Discovery) and monitor the drying of the dive gear.

Mvita Grill tonight since they are closed on Mondays, much as we would prefer it to be on our last night here. Experimentation time, two wines, Macon Drapier, a red and French (enough said) and an old favourite, Dubois, a lovely light and fruity sparkly with a very pleasant after taste.

Starter was prawns and calamari, for me, and prawns, for Pen. Main course was ‘T’ bone, for me, and crab claws, for Pen, (the verdict on the hand to claw combat is still to be decided, but the odds swung violently into Pen's favour when she called up the cavalry, ie the implements used for eating crab!). Sweet was followed by coffee and liquors and the long walk back to the evening's repose and the expectation of the final full day in Kenya.

Monday 24 July: Day 20

Nyali Beach Hotel: Mombassa: Day 10

No Dive Day. Woke up to the pitter-patter sound of rain. The idea of getting some cash was having the dampers put on it, however cash was needed.

Breakfast was a time of thought and ideas in an attempt to find a solution without getting soaked. The sea was a flat calm, good time to dive!

Time to do some walking. The Bank is about 2 km away, very near the Ratna Square Shopping Centre, and we managed it during a dry spell. However, we got there to find that the phone lines were down so no go for cash or even an exchange from Dh to Ksh.

Pen was really pissed off, but not as much as she was by the time we had walked into Mombassa

through a rain shower and over the bridge with the rain coming at us horizontally.

Once in Mombassa and quite close to the bank, we were intercepted by a friendly local, Mohammed, who guided us to a cafe and then arranged a taxi back to Nyali. The return was quicker and drier than the incoming trip, but no less eventful in view of the road conditions and the driving standards.

Back to the safety of the resort and we both bee-lined for the bar to try and restore our rattled nerves. Whiskies and beers later our nerves were such we were still wobbling about (Well, that is our excuse)!

Useless bit of information: There are nine cats, directly supported that is, at Nyali.

More Swahili: Hatari - Danger

Much rain later we tried to intercept Bakari and George. No luck, they were reportedly out diving. Back to the room, then down to afternoon tea, where pancakes are also on offer, to lie in wait for the possible arrival of George and Bakari.

Which brings us to dinner. We are not going to spoil the end by risking the buffet in light of overall past experiences there so we are heading for the Bistro Mchana. Dubois, again, steak for me and spare ribs for Pen and a steady run through to the liquors at the end. However, Pen's single brandy had to be supplemented by a double in the bar (at a price in excess of the bottle of Dubois)! Such is life and so to bed, perchance to dream.

Tuesday 25 July: Day 21

Mombassa - Nairobi - Dubai: 6500 km 16 hr

Up, without any alarms, by eight with final packing and last minute stuffing of items into cases so that we can sign out for 10:00, but breakfast first. The bill for our 'extras' now has to be faced. Bearing in mind that one Sterling Pound is about Ksh100, we have been somewhat extravagant with our fluid intake!

Time to hang around a bit more before we leave hotel, with Ahmed driving the bus, at 11:00 to the airport in time to book in for the flight at 13:00. At the flight check in we were met by David, the half-day tour guide, who checked us out. The flight, KQ 607 (a Boeing 727 registration 5Y-KQK), was the same aircraft we flew in on and gets into Nairobi at 14:00.

Booking in for the Emirates flight starts at 15:15. An hour of lost Duty Free shopping for both of us!

The duty free area was long and thin and had only a little to catch the eye, but the little was a lot enough! Pen and I bounced between two shops that had some clear pebbles ending up at the one we had started at. Pen picked up a nicely shaped Tanzanite for £350, smaller than the one she wanted, but that was £1700. I ended up with a Kenyan stone, Tsavorite for the same price after being barred from getting a Tanzanite for the same price! Pen wants both stones in one ring.

The last air hop from Nairobi, is at 18:15, to Dubai, arriving in Dubai at 00:25 Wed 26 July. A consequence of the power shortage in Nairobi was the manual boarding check in for the Boeing 777.

Time to look forward to a rise in the ambient air temperature (not forgetting the humidity).

Wednesday 26 July: Day 22

Dubai - Abu Dhabi: 200 km 2 hr

Into Dubai at 00:30 and not sure where the bus comes to so it takes half an hour and three information desks later to confirm it is where we started looking!

Return to Abu Dhabi via Mussafa by 05:00. Some coffee and some sleep. Later time to unpack, check the mail, check Richard and go to the Hospital to give blood sample and generally catch up with the world.

ON ON